Innovative watchmaker | Christie's | Christie's

2021-11-25 12:08:51 By : Mr. Alen Zheng

The Angelus movement appeared in early watches made by Panerai for the Italian Navy. Founded 130 years ago by brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz, Angelus has achieved an impressive series of world firsts in the field of innovative watchmaking: from the one-button chronograph in 1925 to the smallest eight-day in the world five years later Movement; from the world's first series chronograph with date display in 1942 to the first watch with alarm and date functions in 1956, and the first automatic minute repeater in 1958. Its innovations also include some more unusual ideas: in 1944, Angelus created Telco, which was the first watch designed to record the duration of long-distance calls.

Contemporary French watchmaker Vincent Bérard once said that his intention is not to "shake the foundation of the industry...but to find the best continuation of its traditions, using currently available technology to interpret them in a modern way". Three years after he launched the eponymous brand in 2003—after 30 years in watch restoration work—Timex acquired it. Even if the timing-due to the 2008 financial crisis-was not right, the insight was right, and the brand was placed in a secondary position. The works produced at this stage, especially his Four Seasons series, have a high collection value, especially his eye-catching original movement.

This company was founded by Steven Holtzman in 2005 to sell craft superstar watches. Its first work, Chapter One in 2008, was designed by Peter Speake-Marin, Christophe Claret and Roger Dubuis; Speake-Marin and Dubuis and Daniel Roth wrote the second chapter, and the third chapter is Andreas Strehler in 2012 And the work of Kari Voutilainen. It is foreseeable that these watches are elegant even for extremely complex watches: the first chapter is a single-button chronograph with retrograde date, reverse GMT, scroll bar indicating day of the week and moon phase , Oh, there is also a tourbillon. Hold your breath and wait for Chapter 4.

Ming is a group of six Malaysian watch lovers led by photographer, designer and business strategist Ming Thein. It has designed several unique works, produced by expert partners such as Schwarz-Etienne. The result can be minimalist exercises, such as the 18.02 Abyss diving watch and OuJ Celestial model, or minimalism, such as its 20.11 Mosaic. What unites them is a retro-futuristic mood, suitable for companies that consciously reject the cliché that watch companies must have a history in order to be credible.

Bovet’s job is clever design. This company, founded by Edouard Bovet in 1822, is a pioneer of highly decorated and skeletonized dials that can display extremely complex movements. Take its manual winding Récital 27 as an example: it has three displays for three time zones, and a domed dual moon phase displays the northern and southern hemispheres. The mother-of-pearl dial of Château de Môtiers 40 Papillon is decorated with hand-painted butterflies.

Some watches are unique in that they are not the work of a watch designer. The work of architect Alain Silberstein is a good example. On the inside, they are mechanically A-rated, but on the outside, they are very different from the watchmaking tradition, with a bold postmodern aesthetic, that is, bright colors and ruined forms. His Krono Bauhaus is a prominent example. Silberstein believes that the dial should be a work of art that can first inspire emotions. He turned to watch design for the first time in 1987, and then worked with watchmakers including Louis Erard and MB&F for a series of collaborations.

In the 1980s, digital watches began to include basic video games in their functions. Christophe Claret used his game model to bring this idea into the world of mechanical watches, where you can play blackjack, roulette and even Texas Hold'em. Claret founded his watchmaking workshop in the late 1980s after receiving training under the guidance of Roger Dubuis. He ordered 20 San Marco jacquemart minute repeaters from the late owner of the Athens watch, Rolf Schnyder, and started his business.

In the public's imagination, Switzerland dominates the watchmaking industry, but the history of craftsmanship in Japan is also respected. Hajime Asaoka's watch designed for its brand Kurono Tokyo is made using traditional techniques, including features such as a cylindrical dial with a raised center and tapering edges. He also uses hand-mixed dial colors, from orange-pink to celadon blue. As a self-taught watchmaker, Asaoka demonstrated extremely high technical skills and launched Japan's first high-end tourbillon watch in 2009.

Arguably the most influential independent watch designer in the 20th century, Gérald Genta is the person behind many brands such as Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak, IWC's Ingenieur, Cartier's Pasha, Patek Philippe's Nautilus and Omega's Constellation. Each model breaks through the aesthetic boundaries of watch design, with sharp angles, exposed screws and steel used as luxurious materials. Genta founded his own company in 1969 to produce a series of super-complex watches, but in 2000 sold the company, his designs and patents to Bulgari. He immediately founded Gerald Charles and continued to work there until his death in 2011.

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Offered in Geneva on November 8. In 1953, explorers Jacques and Auguste Piccard brought a watch to a place that humans have never been to.